More about the baths

The three private baths were each very unique and deserve a little better description than I provided earlier.

As I mentioned previously, I was quite anxious to try the onsens. Soon after arriving at the ryokan in the afternoon, we donned our yukatas and ventured forth.

The first bath we tried was two cauldrons set into a raised concrete platform. We could not decide whether the cauldrons were originally iron or concrete, for they were covered with the mineral sediment of many years. It gave the edges of the bath a rough texture.

Each cauldron was about three feet deep at its centre, and about two and a half feet in diameter. Hot water seeped in through a small fissure in the bottom of the cauldron, and the water spilled out the top and cascaded down the platform. Upon entering the room, the water was so still that the cauldrons appeared empty!

Perhaps because I was to sit inside a bath that closely resembled something of a witch`s repetoire, I expected the bath to be hotter than it was. It was pleasantly warm, and certainly no hotter than one might expect from a hot tub back home. A half hour soak was enough to leave me feeling pleasantly warm and relaxed after arriving.

It was time to try the next bath! The baths were seperated by outside corridors, so the short walk between the baths left me feeling cool and refreshed.

The second bath was a lying down bath. It was a shallow pool, maybe six inches deep, and about five feet wide and six and a half feet long. The bottom of the pool was lined with smooth river rocks and there was a raised bench on one side, should you prefer only to soak your feet. Like the previous bath, the water seeped in through a small fissure in the base of the pool and the water cascaded gently over one side.

This bath was warmer than the first and lying on the river rocks felt so good. The room was lit by a black light and the ryokan staff had painted a starscape scene across the walls, giving the small room a feeling of considerable openess. ]

The third bath - the outside rotenburo - we tried the following morning before check out. The bath was set inside a small glade. The pool itself was fashioned from flagstone and concrete. Japanese maple trees draped their branches over the water and an impressive flower garden lent a rich, clean scent. Stones beside the pool were arranged to splash the hot spring water like a waterfall as it drained from the corner.

The bench inclined, so that you could choose a depth that was comfortable, but the pool was not very deep. It was also the hottest of the baths. And the contrast of hot water and cool morning air was delightful. Add the serenades of early morning birds and you have a spectacular way to begin the day.

I did have a chance to sneak a peak at the two larger public baths. Both were vacant when I had a look. The larger of the tubs (traditionally the bath for the men, but the onsen rotated the baths on a timed schedule) could seat thirty to forty quite easily; the smaller could seat twenty. The public baths were a little more austere - with the smooth tiled floors and very clean lines, they greatly resembled a swimming pool from back home.